The steps of the Varanasi ghat were still wet from the night's rain
when Priya and Dadi arrived at dawn. The Ganga moved slowly below them,
wide and grey-green, carrying garlands of marigold and tiny clay lamps
from the morning prayers upstream. Smoke from the cremation ghats drifted
south, mixing with the smell of chai and incense from the tea stalls.
Bells rang from a temple somewhere behind them — not the frantic kind,
but the slow, steady kind, like a heartbeat.
Dadi pointed with her chin. "See that man?"
Priya looked. Halfway down the steps, an old man sat cross-legged on a
folded blanket. He wore a white kurta, clean but so thin she could see
his collarbones through the cloth. A tin cup sat beside him, and next
to it, a book so old its pages had turned the colour of tea. His eyes
were closed. His hands rested on his knees, palms up, as if he were
holding something invisible.
"That's Sharma-ji," Dadi said. "He's been sitting on these steps every
morning for thirty years."
"What does he do?"
"Nothing. Everything." Dadi sat down and patted the stone beside her.
Priya sat. "He used to be a government clerk. Had a house, a scooter,
a pension file thick as a brick. One day he gave it all away — the
house to his nephew, the scooter to the postman, the pension to a
school for blind children. Kept one kurta, one dhoti, that cup, and
his Gita."
A businessman in a pressed shirt stopped in front of Sharma-ji and
held out a hundred-rupee note. Sharma-ji opened his eyes, smiled — the same smile you might
give a bird landing on your windowsill — and shook his head gently.
The businessman blinked, shrugged, and walked on.
A few minutes later, a tourist with a large camera crouched in front
of Sharma-ji and snapped a photograph without asking. Sharma-ji opened
his eyes again. The same smile. He folded his palms in a small namaste,
as if the tourist had given him a gift instead of taking one.
"Isn't he sad?" Priya whispered. "He doesn't have anything."
Dadi was quiet for a moment, watching a boat cut a slow line through
the river's surface. Then she said: "Look at his face, Priya. Really
look."
Priya looked. Sharma-ji's eyes were open now, watching the river. His
face was still. Not blank — still. Like the surface of water on a day
with no wind. There was no strain in it. No wanting. No waiting for
something to happen. He looked like a person who had already arrived
at a place most people spend their whole lives trying to reach.
"That," Dadi said softly, "is what freedom looks like."
Krishna describes a devotee who is free from wants, pure, skillful, and
untroubled. Not empty — free. There is a difference. An empty cup is
waiting to be filled. Sharma-ji's cup was not waiting for anything at
all.